wandering-angler.net

[angler]

My two favorite authors, Bill Bryson and the comedian Griff Rhys Jones, have a few things in common. First they are primarily travel writers, they use their words to paint a picture using whit and colorful metaphors that some how pick you up and whisk you along in their journey. To all intent and purpose, from page one to the back cover you become their travel companion. Beyond that, thankfully as my memory isn’t all that great, they also both have short and memorable names.

Amandine Aurore Lucile Dupin does not exactly stick in my memory in quite the same way as Bill or Griff! Perhaps she understood that, perhaps she even wished she had been called Bill as she later chose to write under the rather boyish pseudonym of George Sand and was known for wearing men’s clothing. But while Amandine doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue in quite the same way as her modern day contemporaries, she could at least claim to have been a wonderful writer who was never afraid to make full use of humor and irony.

Sand was born in Paris in 1804 to a noble family, although in actual fact her mother had began life as a commoner. For the most part she was raised by her Grandmother, who when given her full title had a name so long it even commanded a coma! Marie Aurore de Saxe, Madame Dupin de Franceuil,

In jotting down ‘Un Hiver a Majorque’, or in English ‘A Winter in Mallorca’, for me, Sand became a pioneer of travel writing. Written while taking a holiday on the Balearic Island, with the composer and her then lover Frederic Chopin, she wrote with an honesty that at the time caused a sensation. This is a book written about travel at a time when you couldn’t just hop on a plane and pop over to Palma airport. In 1838, when the book was written, the equivalent of a budget airline was the slow coach that took the longest rout. By comparison, not exactly British Airways, the fast coach took some 4 days to reach Barcelona from Paris and from there the Steamer added a further 18 hours.

I am not sure that Sand actually liked Mallorca, she was a woman who seemed to like to attract controversy while the islands people did not and this contrast to her extravert manner was always bound to provoke problems. I wonder what she would think of Mallorca now, with its commercialized tourist zones, sanitized of all things Spanish and geared to life in bars and night clubs? Thankfully places like Magaluf and Palma Nova are isolated and do not ruin the island as a whole but I have a feeling that if Sand were to visit the island now she would head straight for them!

As it was, when the couple, Sand and Chopin, visited in 1838 they stayed in a charterhouse converted from a then abandoned Carthusian monastery in the town of Valldemossa. By all accounts they were, in the beginning at least, quite enchanted. Chopin even wrote of the town that it is ‘the most beautiful place on earth’ and on first impression I was inclined to agree.



I can’t even begin to imagine the difficulties involved in venturing to Valldemossa in 1838, all I can report is that 170 years later there are only two roads in or out, those being the main road that weaves along the length of the islands mountainous northern coast and the slightly smoother and wider secondary road that links the town to the capital, Palma. For the record, in the interest of adventure we took the ‘main’ road and when not clinging to the seats or each other for comfort, were glad of the beautiful countryside through which this passes.

Valldemossa is a sleepy little town with one main commercial avenue, lined with cafes and tourist shops. Taking this rout is the easiest way to find the picturesque square that nestles by the very same monastery in which Sand and Chopin stayed.

When buying tickets for most things in Mallorca it’s worth taking either a deep breath or making sure that you have deep pockets before asking the price. Often I am left wondering if the guy in the ticket booth has confused my request for some off the cuff offer to buy the attraction rather than just visit and the monastery at Valldemossa is sadly no exception.

Another thing that quickly becomes obvious about most things in Mallorca is that you nearly always get value for money. So having taken out a mortgage and purchased your tickets, you can at least be sure that you can now spend a number of hours immersed in culture perusing well preserved history and gazing upon beautiful art while wishing you were wearing more sensible shoes!



This was all very pleasant; the weather was warm, so the cool corridors of the monastery offered some comfort. The authorities, throughout the island, have done a remarkable job in putting together clean, well maintained sites and here is certainly no exception. With each room comes something new and equally interesting, Chopin’s piano, some original sheet music, a sensational view across the valley from one of the many terrace gardens. To me, perhaps some what eerily, there seemed almost a sense traveling back in time. It was as if George and Frederic had just popped out for a quick beer or two in the square and would be back at any moment.



From the monastery the landscape stretches down into a valley, bordered by dramatically steep rock faces and lined with Olive groves and small vineyards. The sound of bells can clearly be heard as Mountain goats clamber amongst the rocks, this is all just perfect. Some where out there in this picture postcard world lives the likes of Catherine Zeta Jones and Michael Douglas. Where else could fairytale people live but in a fairytale world of breath taking beauty where the only sound that can be heard is that of the bells on mountain goats!



I am not going to say that the only thing to see in Valldemossa is the monastery or the stunning views but even if it was, I don’t actually think it would matter for these things alone are enough to make it all worth while. As it happens the town also boasts some lovely architecture, some interesting shops and an amazing atmosphere!



Unlike in resort towns, where the shops tend to sell mindless rubbish, here there is an air of sophistication. The town smells of money and this is reflected in the ware to be found on sale in the street. Linen, ceramics, even antiques can be found here along with George Sands book, ‘A Winter in Mallorca’ now translated into at least a dozen different languages.

The monastery is big and I am not sure we ventured to all parts but after visiting I was ready for a change of pace so was pleased to find a number of restaurants in the adjoining square all with hot food, cold beer and soft cushioned chairs.

If the Monastery allows you to drown in culture, the square offers a dreamy change of pace with smells and atmosphere that can quickly intoxicate. The Church towers over one entire border offering afternoon shadow and with it relief from the August heat. I didn’t order grandly but I did eat well and the service, for me, was typically friendly although maybe, just maybe, a little over the top.



I am not sure that George Sand really liked Valldemossa very much but I can say with all honesty, I did!

photos by Kristina Ubaviciute AKA Badget

[angler]

Glad to give you some happy memories Andy

We took the Mountain train to Soller, that will be in a later article

We didn't have time for the cherry brandy, I had already had to much home made wine in our vist to Sa Granja, also in a coming article

There will soon also be some YouTube videos